Score | Publication | Review | Copy |
93 | View from the Cellar | The 2019 Rioja “Maturana Tinta” from Viña Otano is made entirely from the rare grape of Maturana Tinta, with these old vines having been planted all the way back in 1947. The vineyard is planted on stony soils of clay and chalk, the grapes hand-harvested and the wine is aged in used French oak barrels for eighteen months prior to bottling. After the mise, the wine is given an additional two years of bottle aging in the cellar before being released. The 2019 version comes inat an even fourteen percent octane and delivers a deep and complex bouquet of cassis, dark berries, tobacco leaf, Rioja spice tones, a fine base of soil, espresso, cigar smoke and a deft framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and ripely tannic, with a superb core of fruit, good soil undertow and grip, lovely balance and a long, focused and nascently complex finish. With a bit of bottle age, this is going to be an excellent wine. 2032-2065. John Gilman; March – April 2024, Issue 110. |
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93 | Wine Review Online | Get triple duty out of this wine: Provide a wine made from a novel grape variety as an experience for your adventuresome wine friends, or shame the know-it-all tasters in your circle, and finally—get a delicious wine on top of that. Maturana is a rarity, but the fruit behind this has a long pedigree, sourced from a single plot of vines (“Los Cuartos”) planted in 1947. Medium-bodied, it is marked by very bright acidity but does not come off as tart, with open and juicy fruit flavors easily balancing out both the acidity that arrives early and the tannins that check in late. Subtle floral aromas get this off to a great start, and the fruit flavors seem to me as much “blue” in tone as red or black, though shades of all three are evident. Amazingly fresh for a wine now five years off the vine, that doesn’t mean it isn’t ready to enjoy already—which it is, even though enjoying it with food will smooth out the acidity and tannins. Fascinating, fun, and obviously delicious…what more could you ask? Michael Franz; Dec 4, 2024 |