Grapes of Spain

Score	Publication	Review	Copy
92+	View from the Cellar	The Graciano bottling from Viña Otano is made from old bush vines of the variety that are more than fifty years of age. These old vines are hand-harvested, fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged for two years in all used French oak barrels. The 2009 Graciano comes in at fourteen percent octane and is drinking beautifully at age thirteen. The bouquet is deep, complex and quite refined, offering up a lovely blend of ripe cherries, red plums, cigar smoke, clove-like spice tones, a salty base of soil, a bit of celery seed, spiced meats and a deft framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with an excellent core of fruit, fine-grained tannins and lovely length and grip on the very nicely balanced finish. There is still a bit of backend tannin here, but the wine is getting nicely velvety on the attack and it is certainly not a crime to be drinking it already, though it has plenty of life still ahead of it. Fine juice. 2022-2065. John Gilman Issue #98 - March/April 2022

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