|91+||View from the Cellar||The Acentor bottling from Isaac Fernandez is produced from vines that are more than fifty years of age, which are planted at relatively high altitudes of seven hundred and fifty to nine hundred meters above sea level, with the soils being iron-rich clay. The wine is fermented with indigenous yeasts in cement tanks and aged in a combination of French and American casks. The wine offers up a deep, ripe and nicely complex nose of black cherries, grilled venison, coffee grounds, scorched earth and a touch of fresh herbs in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and complex, with nice, plush black fruit on the attack, a good signature of soil, fine depth at the core and lovely length and grip on the ripely tannic and peppery finish. This is 14.5 percent octane, but very nicely balanced. A great, great value at fourteen dollars a bottle here in New York! 2017-2035.|
|90||Vinous Media||(fermented in concrete tanks and then aged for seven months in used French and American oak barrels) Bright magenta. A deeply perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red and dark berries, violet and allspice, complemented by a subtle cracked pepper note. Juicy, gently sweet and light on its feet, offering pliant black raspberry, cherry compote and spicecake flavors and a touch of smokiness on the back half. In a plush, open-knit style, showing good heft and a long, sweet, subtly tannic finish.
2018 - 2023
|89+||View from the Cellar||The Acentor bottling from Isaac Fernandez has been a consistently well-made bottle of garnacha since the first vintage I had the pleasure to try, which was the 2014. Readers may recall that this wine is produced from vines that are fifty-plus years of age, planted at an altitude of seven hundred and fifty to nine hundred meters above sea level, with the soils composed of iron rich clay. The wine is fermented with indigenous yeasts in cement tanks and aged in a combination of French and American casks. The 2016 comes in listed at the same 14.5 percent octane as the 2015, and this seems just a tad on the low side to my palate in this vintage. Nevertheless, the wine is another very good value, offering up a deep and complex nose of baked raspberries, a touch of fruitcake, hung game, garrigue, a fine base of soil tones and plenty of spices in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and really quite well balanced for its octane, with a good core of fruit, impressive soil signature, moderate tannins, impressive nascent complexity and a long, ever so slightly heady finish. I liked the 2015 vintage here just a tad better, but this too is a serious wine that delivers an awful lot of complexity for its extremely reasonable price point! 2018-2030.
Issue #75 – May/June 2018